St. Louis, Missouri
SK8 LIBORIUS
I spotted the spire through a gap in the trees over a block away and got
chills. Sk8 Liborius, a skate park in the former St. Liborius cathedral,
which was finished in 1889, cuts a sharp, Gothic image against the gray
sky, heavy with impending rain.
Cathedrals aren’t tiny structures, but Sk8 Liborius looms particularly
large. Across the street, with my back up against the brick of the building
opposite, I still couldn’t fit the entire facade of the church in a single
camera shot. Try as I might, the pictures don’t do it justice anyway. I’ve
seen plenty, however, because Sk8 Liborius is a bucket-list skate park. And
ascending the stone steps through the tall double doors, you immediately
understand why. Stripped of its pews, the floor opens to an expanse of
ramps, including a tall vertical ramp made possible by the cathedral’s
height. The marble columns hold the buttressed ceiling.
I used to play a game with skaters and nonskaters alike where I’d
show them a picture of the inside of Sk8 Liborius and ask them where
they thought it was. Out of the ones who didn’t know the place already,
most said somewhere in Europe and some said New York City. When
I announced it was in St. Louis, I knew their jaws would drop. They
always did.
***
Though I haven’t been to mass in nearly a decade and only went as
a child to please my grandmother, cathedrals always strike awe in me.
The tall ceilings, the columns, the way the sound echoes on the tiles, the
baroque paintings of the Stations of the Cross, and, of course, the stained-
glass windows—all of it makes me feel small and makes the world feel
more expansive.
That is to say, Sk8 Liborius felt holy when I entered it for the first
time. Not in a specifically Catholic or even religious sense but in the way
that skating can be a kind of religion. I’ve heard skaters describe it as their
sanctuary and their refuge. A cathedral is a monument to human artistry
and dedication. They’re not easy to build; it takes a lot of time, years on
end, and a lot of resources to bring a one to life, and then you have to
work hard to maintain it. Skating is not altogether different. It’s not easy
to do, it takes years of dedicated practice to get good at it, and it requires
an investment of time and resources. And anyone who’s ever built a ramp
and maintained it for years will tell you about the constant struggle and
expense.
Perhaps there’s someone who can look upon Gothic revival architecture
and feel blasé about it, but that person isn’t me. When I walked inside Sk8
Liborius, my eyes traveled upward through the vert ramp to the ribbed
vaulting on the ceiling, the Corinthian columns, the clerestory with its
stained-glass windows, and then back down to the altar, which held a
speaker blasting rock music. Between the strumming of an electric guitar,
itself another kind of shredding, birdsong echoed through the cavernous
room. The cathedral’s broken windows invited birds in, and Sk8 Liborius,
like an airport or a Walmart Supercenter, is also a large birdhouse. Though
their nests, situated past the dangling construction lights, were too high to
spot, I could guess where their nests were, based on the splatters of dried
bird poop on the ramps.
The poop doesn’t take away from Sk8 Liborius’s beauty, though—it
only adds to it. Skaters have always had a gritty, DIY ethos. As a rule,
skate parks are expensive to build and maintain, and that’s especially
true for one that’s housed in a building that’s over a century old and on
the National Register of Historic Places. When St. Liborius was built in
the late nineteenth century, the Dakotas, Montana, Washington, Idaho,
Wyoming, Utah, Oklahoma, New Mexico, Arizona, Alaska, and Hawaii
weren’t states yet.
Slappy Sinclair, a skateboarder who’s been shredding the streets and
ramps of St. Louis fo r thirty years, put it another way: “They started
building the church before Abraham Lincoln was born and didn’t finish
until after he was assassinated.”
Sk8 Liborius looks like it’s still under renovation because it is. To
maintain a skate park that’s not made of concrete is to constantly be
renovating, fixing, patching. Tools lay off to the side, and wooden boards
and bricks wait in the wings. More than anything, Sk8 Liborius is a labor
of love. The near homonyms of “Liborius” and “laborious” did not fail to
reach my ears.
This labor of love continues under the twenty-five-thousand-square-
foot skate park. In the basement is the Liborius Urban Arts Studios, a
makerspace and community arts center. It’s through this nonprofit arm that
Sk8 Liborius gives back to the community. As the organizers observed,
“Skating is an activity that speaks across social, racial, and economic lines.
You might come from a broken home, be poor and only own one pair of
shoes, but you can be the coolest kid in the skate park because you put in
the hard work and practice.”
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